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The Argus monitor gets its name from a monster of Greek mythology named Argus. The mythical beast had one hundred eyes and was ordered by Juno to keep watch over Io. Perhaps the spots, more correctly known as ocelli, that forms the pattern on an Argus' skin may have influenced it common name.
The taxonomic classification of the Argus monitor is somewhat unclear. Some feel it is subspecific to gouldii while others believe it warrants its own specific name, panoptes or hornii or some variation of the two. I will refer to it as Varanus gouldii horni. This information may be outdated depending on when you read this page.
Argus monitors usually have a black or dark background with rows or bands of yellow to tan ocelli across the back and continuing down the tail. I have seen individuals that have the banding of ocelli go right down to the tip of the tail or stop a few inches shy of the tip. Arguses also have a black temporal band that starts at the nare, cuts across the eye and extends back towards the ear. Two yellow temporal bands also border this black band. The underside of the neck and body is yellow to tan in color and freckled with black markings. The limbs show the same ocelli pattern found on the back and are extremely stout, well built and powerful. When compared to other Varanids the limbs of an Argus seem disproportionately large. The tail of an Argus monitor is by no means slender. It is very robust and heavily built, much like it's legs. The musculature of the tail is evident and may have evolved from their tripodal behaviour.
Argus monitors habitate Northern Australia and the island of New Guinea. New Guinea supports a tropical climate and Arguses can be found around riverbanks and streams as well as the borders of open fields. Of course it is hard to apply geographic constraints when dealing with monitors because they can easily venture into areas not associated with them in any of the literature. Therefore, the habitats stated on this page are generalised from what I have learned in my readings.
Argus monitors, like all monitors are diurnal and in nature go through a daily light and dark cycle. As keepers we should provide them with the same thing. For lighting, florescent or incandescent bulbs will do just fine. You can easily set these on an inexpensive timer to give a rough cycle of twelve hours of light to twelve hours of dark. Don't be affaid to experiment with this cycle to see if there is a better light to dark ratio for your monitor or if it makes no difference at all. I won't get into the whole issue of whether or not monitors need UV lighting, except to say that there is no definitive proof to show that they need it in captivity or to show that they suffer from receiving it. Many people have successfully kept monitors both ways. You can do some research and make your own informed decision on this one.
I don't advocate the use of any hotrock for the simple reason that hotrocks have been known to cause burns on monitors. Of course there may be situations where you are forced to use one of these and I find that by placing a towel around the rock better displaces the heat. An Argus monitor is very active and will appreciate a HOT basking spot. Anywhere in the range from 40-55°C(110F-135F) is probably good for your Argus. However, they will still bask at temperatures that exceed even that. With these high basking temperatures it is important for the keeper to monitor the ambient temperature of the cage. For an Argus monitor, an ambient cage temperature of 30-35°C(80F-85F) is good. At night the basking spot is not necessary but the ambient temperature should not drop below 20°C(70F). Depending on the size of your enclosure and your Argus you will have to experiment to see what type of set-up you'll need to properly heat your Argus and its cage. Warning: Make sure your Argus can not come into direct contact with the heating element because it can severely injure itself. Their sense of touch is not the same as ours and the monitor may burn itself without knowing it. Use some sort of screening or make sure the heating device is far enough away that the monitor can't reach it.
Argus monitors are very active and love to explore every inch of their enclosures. For a full-grown Argus it is recommended that the bigger the cage the better it is for your monitor. It's hard to say what the minimum dimensions for your cage should be since they are such active lizards. Perhaps an enclosure of 6 feet long X 3 feet high X 3 feet deep would do as a minimum for an adult. This is only a suggestion . Of course the more space you provide them with the better off they will be. As juveniles they can easily be housed in an appropriate sized aquarium but if well fed they will quickly outgrow this. In the case of Argus monitors it is better to give them more surface area than height as they are primarily ground dwellers but can climb if they have to. You can construct your own enclosure for a relatively cheap price out of melamine (coated particleboard) from your local building store. I use sliding glass panels for the front because I find glass to be better than plexi, but use whatever works best for you. There are many different types of substrate to choose from and some of them work well with reptiles. You should however, stay away from bedding like pine or cedar because they are known to cause skin irritations in monitors. Good choices that I find work well with Argus monitors are aspen, and various mulches. I like to use cypress mulch because it looks aesthetically pleasing and it allows you to maintain areas of moisture for your Argus. Depth of the substrate is another important factor. Monitors like to burrow. Burrowing allows your monitor to conserve moisture that would be lost trough the skin and gives it a place to feel secure. Certain substrates are better for burrowing, like soil mixtures and mulch. If you give your monitor about two feet of substrate to burrow in you will find that it much happier and more active. If this is not possible then some kind of tight hiding spot will suffice. You can construct this yourself or find a nice clean hollow log.
Argus monitors are voracious predators that will eat just about anything you offer them. They have a high metabolism that seemingly allows them to eat and eat without putting on the weight that another type of monitor would (e.g Savannah monitor). They are very active and seem to become even more so as feeding time approaches. This is not to say that if fed too much as adults they will not become obese just like any other monitor. Care must be taken to regulate their diet. Obesity is not a problem in juvenile monitors, which can be fed as much as they will eat. It is with an adult monitor that a keeper must use moderation. Arguses can be fed any of the commonly available feeder animals such as mice, rats, crickets, mealworms, fish, chicks, turkey diet and many other prey items that are not as easily acquired like snails and other crustaceans. Argus monitors also enjoy eggs. When feeding raw yolks there is a risk of salmonella so what you can do is boil the egg and then feed it to your Argus. They will relish this. The size of the prey should also be considered. When feeding rats for instance, you don't want to feed your Argus something that cannot be easily swallowed. It is better to feed your monitor a couple of smaller items than to give it one really large item. The size of the prey that you feed your Argus will depend on the size of your monitor. The size and amount of food your Argus gets will increase as your monitor grows. A well fed Argus monitor will grow very quickly indeed so be prepared. Well fed and cared for females will even produce eggs on a regular basis without the presence of a male, so long as your husbandry method are good. Some people say that vitamin supplements are a mandatory part of husbandry because some monitors lack certain vitamins in their diet or they can't synthesise calcium properly without access to direct sunlight. On the other hand you have those people who say that if you feed your monitors well fed, whole prey items there is no need to supplements their diets with vitamins. Some also believe that these supplements can lead to hypervitaminosis and infertility. It is up to you to do some research and decide what you believe. Personally, I supplement my adult monitors on occasion and supplement juvelniles more frequently. Note: Fresh water should be available at all times
Argus monitors can grow to be anywhere from 3.5 feet in females to 4.0-5.0 feet in males. They are a fairly large monitor both because of the robust appendages and because of the bold personality. A large Argus that is not used to being held will be a challenge to handle. Most Arguses will put on quite a show when you reach to pick them up. This can include hissing, tail lashing and tri-podding. As well, they may lunge at the keeper with open mouths and grab hold of the closest piece of flesh. If you acquire a hatchling to juvenile and handle it on a regular basis it will most likely calm down to the point that it will no longer try to bite you or tail lash anymore. More likely than not an Argus will not tolerate prolonged handling and will scratch and squirm in order to get free. Don't expect a typical Water or Savannah monitor from an Argus. Tame for an Argus is not the same as it is for the previously mentioned monitors. Research as much as possible before you buy.