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The Mangrove monitor is known to science as Varanus indicus. This is one of the most wide spread and versatile monitor lizards in the world. These lizards have been introduced to a number of Pacific islands to control marine toad and rodent populations. In fact, they are so wide spread and variable that the Mangrove monitor complex includes some of the most beautiful and taxonomically debated species available in the pet trade.
The Mangrove monitor is found in New Guinea, Northern Australia, Solomon Islands, Marshall Islands, Caroline Islands, Marianas Islands, Guam as well as other Pacific Islands (Bennett, 1998). With such a wide distribution it's no surprise that there are a number of different patterns and color phases associated with the Mangrove monitor. They are usually found around bodies of water in habitats such as mangrove swamps, forests and sometimes in open areas.
The Mangrove complex includes varanids such as Varanus doreanus, Varanus jobiensis, Varanus yuwonoi, Varanus caerulivirens and of course the variable Varanus indicus. There are also many color varients of the Mangrove. There are rare blueish colored phases as well as Mangroves with blue tails that are sometimes seen. Locality data on such monitors are not clear to this author but it seems the blueish colored Mangrove is local to Halmahera. This just goes to show how diverse a group the Mangrove complex is.
I referred to these monitors as versatile because they are excellent diggers, climbers and swimmers. They can do it all. The mangrove monitor exibits the typical Indonesian monitor body shape. It has a long head and neck with powerful jaws and sharp teeth that can crush mullosk shells as well as inflict deep wounds on an unweary keeper. The limbs are powerfully built and are equiped with needle sharp claws that are good for digging and climbing. The tail is typically about 1.5 times as long as the body or SVL (Snout to Vent Length) and is laterally compressed to aid this accomplished swimmer. The tail can be spotted or banded in whatever color the markings on the body are. The dorsum is black and variable in pattern and most commonly shows some form of transverse or random spotted markings. These markings are anywhere from white to yellow and can vary in size. The lips are usually of a cream color
There is little captive breeding going on for these lizards and most of the animals seen in the pet trade are WC (Wild Caught). As always, you should try to buy a CB (Captive Bred) animal whenever possible but this is not always an easy task with most species. It has been documented that most Mangrove monitors in the trade come from the Solomon Islands. Wherever they come from it is important that you treat WC animals for parasites and bacterial infections when they come in. However, this is not always neccessary and a keeper will need to use their judgement to do what is needed to establish the animal in captivity.
Mangrove monitors come from an area of the world that has hot humid temperatures for most of the year. They will need the same in captivity in order to thrive. Heating can be provided through the use of heat lamps. These come in a number of different forms. There are "reptile" basking lights on the market that do a good job at providing the needed heat for your monitor but they tend to become quite costly after a while. The same amount of heat can be obtained from an inexpensive halogen bulb from the hardware store. Bulbs come is a number of wattages and some experimenting on your part will be needed to determine which bulb(s) is best suited for your enclosure. Varanus indicus will bask at high temperatures and a basking spot with a surface temperature around 120°F will be used often. Monitor the temperature and be sure it doesn't become too hot as themal burns may occur. The rest of the enclosure should have an ambient temperture gradient of 80-90°F. It is important to avoid a uniformly hot tank because this will put stress on the animal and it will not be able to thermoregulate properly. Depending on the size of your enclusure you may find it neccessary to use ceramic heaters to maintain the correct temperature gradient. These are good for background heat since they produce no light and are effective against combatting low night time temperatures. Warning: Make sure your Mangrove monitor can not come into direct contact with the heating element because it can severely injure itself. Their sense of touch is not the same as ours and the monitor may burn itself without knowing it. Use some sort of screening or make sure the heating device is far enough away that the monitor can't reach it.
If you feel your enclosure is not bright enough with just the heat lamps there are a number of flourescent fixtures you can buy and install for a low price that will provide more light for the monitors.
A regular photoperiod of 12 hours light : 12 hours dark can easily be achived with the use of a simple timer that can be purchased at any hardware store. Don't be affaid to experiment with this cycle to see if there is a better light to dark ratio for your monitor or if it makes no difference at all. I won't get into the whole issue of whether or not monitors need UV lighting, except to say that there is no definitive proof to show that they need it in captivity or to show that they suffer from receiving it. Many people have successfully kept monitors both ways. You can do some research and make your own informed decision on this one.
Mangrove monitors should be protected against low night time temperatures. This can be done with room heaters, ceramic or night lights (usually blue or red). Try to avoid dipping below the 70°F mark at night.
As juveniles Mangrove monitors can be housed in various sized aquariums for the first part of their lives. A hatchling can easily live in a 30 gallon aquarium for the first few months of its life. However, it would be a good idea to buy or build an enclusure that will be able to house the monitor at its adult size from the start. This can end up saving you time, space and money in the long run. Suitable enclosures can be constructed rather inexpensively from melamine and glass. As a minimum, I would suggest and enclosure with dimensions 6 feet long X 3 feet high X 2.5 feet deep. This is only a suggestion . Of course a bigger enclosure will always be better for the monitor.
Juvenile mangrove monitors are usually skittish and will feel much safer if you give them a few hiding areas. Hiding areas don't have to be complex and can be easily constructed out of wood or a cardboard box. Of course these are not always the most pleasing things to look at but remember, functionality is more important than esthetics.
Varanus indicus is also an accomplished climber and will benefit from the addition of a few sturdy branches in the enclosure. These branches should be securely fastened to the insides of the tank and be thick enough to support the weight of the monitor. Furtharmore, Mangrove monitors are excellent swimmers and will definitly enjoy long soaks in a large water bowl. If you can provide a container that is large enough for the monitor to curl its tail around and submerge itself completly you will probably find that the monitor will spend a lot of time there. With all the splashing of water that can take place it is important that the keeper monitors the substrate so that it does not become overly wet which can result in the formation of mold. I find that by using a tall Rubbermaid tub and filling it only half or three quarters of the way full will prevent excessive spilling.
As for substrates, there are many choices available to a keeper. Newspaper, aspen shavings, cypress mulch and soil are all acceptable. I like cypress mulch for its ability to hold moisture as well as it's nice looks. A combination of soil and mulch also works well but can be a little messy. If you can provide a substrate with a little depth to it (6 or 7 inches) this will be good. Mangrove monitors will dig and bury themselves under the substrate. This can help them preserve moisture as well as feel secure in their surroundings.
Juvenile Mangrove monitors will accept a wide variety of prey items. However, they can be shy feeders and may not accept food in your presence. Don't be alarmed if your newly purchased hatchling monitor doesn't run down and consume the first few food items you offer. Some animals will feed greedily right from the start while others may take quite some time before they feel comfortable enough to eat in front of you. Just leave the food in the tank with the monitor and more than likely it will disappear in a short while.
Acceptable food items for juvenile monitors include: crickets, mealworms, mouse pinkies and hoppers, ground turkey, feeder fish and eggs. Juveniles should be fed everyday until you feel comfortable with their progress at which time you can move to every other day. Remember, you will know your monitor best and should be able to set up the most appropriate feeding regimen.
As adults, Varanus indicus will be able to accept crickets, mealworms, mice, small rats, chicks, ground turkey, eggs and various seafoods and crustaceans (i.e crayfish). Obesity is a factor that must be considered in adult monitors. Again, you the keeper will have to decide what type of diet your Mangrove will need in order to stay trim. Note: Fresh water should be available at all times
Varanus indicus can grow rather large and there are confirmed cases of animals growing up to 5 feet TL (Total Length). This seems to be the exception rather than the rule though. In most cases Mangrove monitors will reach lengths of 3.5-4 feet TL. Hatchlings are reported to emerge from the egg at 9-10 inches TL. If fed well these monitors will grow rapidly.
Mangrove monitors are well known for their skittish behaviour. Many of the WC (Wild Caught) juveniles that come into the pet trade will be nervous and shy at first. I have read that CB (Captive Bred) hatchlings that are handled often are much tamer initailly than their WC counterparts. This is not to say that WC Mangrove monitors are beyond taming because it is indeed possible. Of course it would be wise to start with a juvenile if this is your goal. WC adults on the other hand may prove more diffecult to tame. Regular, gentle interaction with the monitor would be the best route to take but you have to remember that a WC adult has quite a few years of experience behind it and getting it used to being handled may not be easy . Persistence is the key.
All monitors have some line of defense. Mangrove monitors are capable biters and scratchers. They may even lash out at an agressor with the tail. What they are most notorious for is defecating on the handler so be aware and be ready to clean up a few messes. They also possess sharp teeth that can do damage to an un-gloved hand. Gloves are an excellent way of handling monitors without the added worry of being bitten. They are also very fast and can jump out of your grip and take off on floor before you have time to react. Be alert when handling Mangroves.